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 I still remember the Geography class at school when we watched a video about Brazil. I was amazed that a country of such extreme beauty and wealth of resources was also a country of severe poverty and violence.
At the time I never thought I would go there, in fact, most English people regard Brazil as too dangerous to visit unless perhaps to stay in a resort. Years later, I had the chance to find out what the reality is like.
I knew I wanted to do some voluntary work in Brazil but I didn't have the first idea of how to go about finding a useful project. My task was made even more difficult by my appalling Portuguese, which meant that finding projects based in Brazil was virtually impossible.
Most projects administrated from the US or the UK seemed to be achieving little more than making a profit from other people's misery, with volunteers making musical instruments or helping to build houses; tasks that locals could have done a hundred times over with the large sums of money paid.
So I was delighted when, following my posting on the website www.brazzil.com, I received an email from a friend of Educação para Todos (Education for All), Olivier Boulot. He included a link to the website and advised me that no fee was payable.
In further emails, I discussed the project and various practicalities associated with working there. It wasn't long before I was sure that this was what I had been looking for. It was only later I found out that Olivier actually lived in Alaska and, although he had been providing a lot of help with the website and other administrative duties, he had yet to visit the project for himself!
Upon my arrival in Maceió (the capital of the northeastern state of Alagoas) airport, around midnight on a Saturday evening, Ângelo was there to meet me. It being too late to find somewhere cheap to stay, we took a taxi to his flat where he offered me his bed so I could get a good nights sleep.
That was just the beginning, from then onwards and despite his busy schedule, he assisted me in every way possible to help me adjust to the many differences, challenges and opportunities that my new life in Maceió presented.
He found me a nice flat (with a balcony overlooking the beach), introduced me to all his friends (I haven't had time to be lonely - there's always a party somewhere), found a qualified teacher to teach me Portuguese (for free) and provided me with many delicious lunches.
After finding out that I'm a wannabe DJ, he even found someone willing to let me play a set at a night they promoted at one of the biggest clubs in the city!
My Portuguese was pretty much non-existent when I arrived in Maceió so I was glad to find out that not only Ângelo spoke good English, but many of his friends did too and anyone who could speak even a little was more than happy to talk with me.
Also, on my first day in the city, Ângelo introduced me to his English friends who I drink with fairly regularly now and we talk politics and about the lack of an Indian takeaway for thousands of miles.
Maceió Survival Guide
Having adjusted somewhat to life in Maceió, I believe it is worth mentioning a few things that future volunteers might like to know, although a more comprehensive survival guide will be compiled shortly and issued on arrival.
Obviously, it is also worth looking at travel guides for general information on staying in Brazil and also checking up about any personal health issues before setting off.
Weather
Maceió is hot and sunny almost continuously and it is worth packing accordingly although bearing in mind that more suitable clothing can be bought here at a fraction of the price.
In fact, many of the T-shirts and shorts I brought from England were made of thicker material than is used here and were far too hot. Decent sunglasses are also important as the glare can really strain your eyes.
Transport
The bus services around Maceió are regular, efficient and cheap - with a fixed fare of R$ 1.45 (US$ 0.60) regardless of distance. The only drawback is that the bus drivers insist on pushing the heavy buses to their limits, speeding down the pothole filled roads as soon as the last passenger has stepped on board. Prepare to hold on tight!
The Cost of Living
Maceió is very cheap to live in for those traveling from most English speaking nations. My monthly budget was around R$ 1500 (reais), or about US$ 600. It is possible to live on less, but I lived in relative luxury as shown below:
Luxury, fully furnished (including stereo, TV, bedclothes and kitchenware) studio apartment in a prime location overlooking the beach, close to a supermarket and international telephone center and a safe walk to the center of Maceió's nightlife. - R$ 650 (US$ 274) + electricity (around R$ 50 - US$ 21 )
Weekly trips to the launderette for all washing and ironing - R$ 100 (US$ 42)
All the fresh fruit and vegetables and other essentials to eat well. Cost would increase for non-vegetarians or those who prefer the ready meal option! - R$ 200 (US$ 84)
Transport, meals out, drinks and other expenses: To give some idea, a decent meal for two with a couple of drinks each might cost R$ 40 - R$ 50 (US$ 17 - US$ 21), a bottle of beer in a bar or club about R$ 1.50 (US$ 0.63) and a taxi home around R$ 5 (US$ 2).
Again, cheaper options are available in the form of the delicious tapioca stalls, which line the beach (about R$ 5 (US$ 2) for tapioca with your choice of filling and a soft drink) and, of course, the supermarket where you can buy a bottle of cachaça (the local firewater) for about R$ 3 (US$ 1.20).
The more cultured volunteer might be interested to note that on one occasion I went to the theatre to watch some choirs from around the country perform, I gave only a bag of rice to get in (R$ 1.50 - US$ 0.63)
In addition to these monthly costs, I spent a little extra at the beginning purchasing a few essentials for my apartment, extra plates and pans and some new clothes (vests and shorts less than R$ 10 (US$ 4.20) at the market, where you can also buy 50 small bananas for as little as R$ 0.50 (US$ 0.21)!)
Safety
Although not as crime-ridden as São Paulo or Rio de Janeiro, there are certain safety considerations to take into account living in Maceió, especially for people coming from overseas.
The beach area of Maceió is the safest area of the city and can be safely explored at almost any time of day or night. It was made clear to me, however, that once you leave this area, you have to be very careful and in fact some areas are no-go for foreigners once it is dark.
So far, I have not had any problems as I have been careful to avoid walking around alone late at night and always take a taxi when coming home from a bar or club.
Also, when I go to work in the favela of Reginaldo, many people know about the volunteers's work in the community and I am always accompanied by students so that there is no chance of any trouble.
I have always felt safe when working in Reginaldo but for those volunteers who would like to help, but feel they are not ready to face the favela, there is the option of working only in Pontal de Barra, a calm and peaceful fishing village on the edge of Maceió
Maceió Fest and Other Shows
There always seems to be live music being performed in Maceió, and many of the events are quite large with a lot of people attending. It is wise not to take too much money, as theft and robbery are more common at these events.
Within my first couple of weeks I saw Cidade Negra, who were great, but unfortunately, a pickpocket mistook my mini phrasebook for my wallet and I was left struggling to communicate afterwards.
I was warned by lots of people not to go to Maceió Fest as fighting and theft are common, however, when I was there, on two consecutive nights, the only violence I saw was from the police.
Once randomly attacking the crowd around them for no observable reason, and another time giving a young man such a beating it prompted one of the singers to stop singing and tell them to stop because he was only a boy.
Reginaldo - A Brief History
The favela of Reginaldo lies in a valley, which runs for around 15 km through the city of Maceió. The land is very steep in many places and a drainage canal runs through the center, so the area was never developed for residential use by the city.
Instead, since around 1930, it has been a refuge of sorts for the thousands of people who have been forced from their homes in the countryside surrounding Maceió. Some headed for the city in the face of desperate poverty; others were expelled from their lands to make way for the sugar cane farms.
Upon arrival in the city the newcomers had to find somewhere to stay until they could afford a house of their own. Having little or no money, the only option aside from sleeping on the streets, was to build makeshift dwellings on unoccupied land such as was to be found in Reginaldo valley.
Unfortunately, for many, the income necessary to obtain a proper house never became available and so the shanty towns continued to grow in size as more people came to Maceió in search of a better life.
The families of the earliest settlers are perhaps best off, having settled at the edge of Reginaldo which now almost blends in with the adjacent neighborhood; there are even a few shops and bars.
Perhaps the main differences to other areas are the huge piles of rubbish and the awful sight and smell of the drainage canal running so close to people's homes. The dirt road that passes through crosses a bridge over the canal and passes a church and a school before continuing further into the community where the standard of the housing deteriorates until much of it is no more than shacks.
This is where more recent arrivals live, the most recent being worst off as much of the useable land is taken and so they are forced to live on what little remains.
The area under a road bridge that passes over Reginaldo is particularly bad, with tiny buildings made from anything that can be put together, without running water or any toilet facilities.
The children here sit and play in the alleys between the houses, next to streams choked with plastic bags of faeces.
It is apparent now where the homes of the original settlers are. Even now, people who have more recently come from the countryside will say that, although life is grim in the favela, the very fact of it being in a city means there is at least some prospect of a little work and a little money, where as in the country the prospects are often even bleaker.
The Present Day
From the very beginning, the inhabitants of Reginaldo have always lived in poverty. Even now, the conditions are often reminiscent of a previous century or a third world country, the only concessions being the power and telephone lines that connect parts of the community to modern day Brazil. Aside from this, there has been little development and the people still face the same problems, some of which are discussed below.
At this moment, Ângelo is struggling to raise the money to finish off a block of toilets.
Health
With no proper sanitation, the drainage canal that once contained fish has become little more than an open sewer. The only life it now supports is the larvae of the mosquitoes that spread diseases such as dengue fever and, perhaps one of the most dangerous, the deadly and disfiguring filariasis.
This terrible disease and the resulting elephantiasis (irreversible swelling of the limbs and testicles) is caused by a parasitic worm that can be harbored in sewage. It is very difficult to contract, as a person needs to be bitten thousands of times by the carrier mosquitoes in order to be infected.
In Reginaldo however, because of the lack of sanitation, there were many of these mosquitoes and infection rates were high causing shame and misery for many people. In recent years, this problem has been controlled thanks to the unceasing work of Doctor Gilberto, his wife and his students, with the help of the World Health Organization.
Their large-scale program of education, testing and subsequent medication has halted the spread of filariasis and the development of elephantiasis in the area. Were this program to stop, however, the disease would quickly return, with the infected people's condition worsening and new victims contracting the sickness.
Disease will always be a problem in underdeveloped areas of such high population density, especially when access to health care is so limited. So much could be achieved, however, with the provision of adequate sanitation.
It would eliminate the majority of the parasitic worms; of both the filariasis and other, often just as dangerous types; and would also cut down the numbers of the mosquitoes.
This is a task that in theory is relatively easy and cheap, when you consider how many people's lives it is affecting, but yet no politician seems interested in helping.
Some of the inhabitants are reduced to defecating into plastic bags and attempt to stay clean by pouring water over themselves; often while still fully clothed as they have no privacy in which to bathe properly.
As well as depriving people of their good health, something most of us take for granted, lack of sanitation and clean water is also depriving people of their dignity.
Social Problems
Aside from health, poor access to education and unemployment continue to trap the community of Reginaldo in poverty. Lack of money for uniforms and materials mean that most children cannot attend public school and the pressure to contribute to their family's income means that those that do make it through school rarely have the chance to attend university.
This lack of education combined with the stigma of living in Reginaldo means that is very difficult for many people to get a decent job and so to earn enough money to escape the favela.
This social and material deprivation inevitably leads some to criminal activity. Petty thieves and pickpockets go out into the city while gangs of drug dealers sell to the addicts within the community.
Since police involvement in crimes inside the favela is usually minimal, anyone found to be stealing faces a violent death and still others die in gang disputes.
Days before my arrival, a 16-year-old boy was found dead with a 44 Magnum. Police response to crimes committed outside the community is often brutal, as I witnessed on my first day in the favela.
Teaching in Reginaldo
My first visit to Reginaldo was a very intense experience. It started with a phone call to Ângelo from one of the community leaders who explained that we should wait at the edge of the favela until we heard from him again.
The reason was soon to become apparent. Heavily armed police had invaded to arrest a suspect and, until he was apprehended, it was not safe to be wandering around. We entered the edge of the favela and waited, receiving further calls to confirm that we should remain where we were, until eventually, the news came that the suspect had been apprehended and we could continue to the classroom.
As we walked, we passed the police who were marching the suspect along, indulging in unnecessary violence as they went. One of the students asked me if the police behaved this way in England to which I explained that it does happen occasionally but is not as common or as blatant as it appears to be in Brazil. I was relieved when the police, with their guns and body-armor, disappeared out of sight.
The students were a lot more friendly, although many were very shy. Perhaps more so than in Pontal and certainly than in England. They all had questions to ask though, about where I was from, if I liked Maceió, and if I was married or single.
I answered and asked a few questions and then Ângelo demonstrated his unique teaching style, to which I paid close attention, having no experience myself. With little resources, Ângelo compensates with energy and engages with each and every student to make sure they all get involved.
Teaching resources are definitely a problem. Not everyone has books and the number of photocopied activities is sometimes limited. Also, the books are not ideally suited to the student's background.
Discussing visits to other countries or how often you eat in a restaurant is not very relevant in a favela. Even having a place to teach is not guaranteed. The classroom in which I initially taught was closed due to a lack of money to pay the rent and we were forced to use a smaller room which was uncomfortably hot making it very difficult for all to concentrate.
Luckily, one of the local churches agreed that we could use their rooms, which are much better but the uncertainty will still be there until the project can have its own building and make it more like a proper school.
Pontal de Barra
Pontal de Barra is a fishing village on the edge of Maceió, on the edge of the lagoon and the sea. Most people living there make the money from either fishing or making handicrafts to sell to tourists.
This means the community is better off than Reginaldo. but it is still very poor. People there would certainly not be able to afford English lessons for example. It is a beautiful place and the people are very friendly and generous.
The Future of the Project
I am very sad to leave the project behind now as I believe it is entering a new and exciting phase. An NGO is up and running to facilitate expansion and give more power to the organization, more of the older students are getting involved and there are many ideas as to how things can be improved.
For example, it has been suggested that a careers service should be set up to bridge the gap between the students learning English and using it to get a better job. Many of them are nervous about using their new skills and have no interview experience.
Help with writing CVs and practicing interviews will allow many more people to actually improve their lives. An international airport is nearing completion at Maceió and inevitably this will lead to more English-speaking tourists.
I believe that the best students of this project will be in a good position to meet the subsequent demand for English-speaking waiters, receptionists, tour guides and so on.
There are many other ideas and changes that are ahead. Olivier has finally come from Alaska and will be using his management and consultancy skills to provide more structure for future work and to investigate the possibility of providing computer skills training - there are not enough competent computer users and technicians in Maceió and yet this is an essential requirement for the future.
With more resources and a little time, I am sure that the project could also fill this gap with students from some of the poorest sections of society, which can only have a good effect on Maceió as a whole.
I have really enjoyed my time in Maceió and really feel like I have achieved something - my students showed marked improvement and my teaching gave Ângelo time to concentrate more on the future of the project.
I would like to return in a year or so if possible and see how things have changed. If everything goes well and more resources are found, in five years I see this project expanding and providing a model for community development in other parts of Brazil as well.
You can also volunteer to teach in Maceió. You will be able to get affordable accommodation and help with transportation and teaching resources. You will also be offered free tuition in learning the Brazilian-Portuguese language and will be able to freely participate in capoeira sessions.
Antônio Ângelo Farias da Silva, the creator of the Educação para Todos (Education for All) project, can be contacted at aafdasilva@ig.com.br. The webpage of the program is http://www.educacaoparatodos.org/
Simon Thomas, the author of this article, may be contacted at simon-tee@lycos.co.uk.
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