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 Rio de Janeiro is the marvelous City. No one who has visited
will tell you any different. Rio at Carnaval time is
the best place on the planet to be.
By C M Collins
Most agree Brazilians are a race apart. This includes other Latin Americans who find
that while Brazilians understand Spanish an average Spanish-speakers will not understand
Portuguese. If you or someone in your group does not understand Portuguese you should book
a Rio beach hotel in Copacabana, Ipanema or Leblon where there is enough English spoken
for you to get by.
Rio citizens are called Cariocas and their appreciation for the good life sets
the national hedonism standards. This culture is known for highly sophisticated beach
scene; outstanding music and dancing; rich cuisines; and the most tolerant attitude to
sexuality anywhere in Latin America. Cariocas like to go to bed late and generally
arrive late for appointments. Body contact is a fundamental part of the conversation as is
kissing on both cheeks when greeting or parting. They will get closer to you in
conversation than you are used too but you will appreciate their genuine friendliness and
humor. Enjoying getting laid back with them at Carnaval time is infectiously easy if you
try.
Street safety is very important in Rio as in most of Brazil. The main drill is not to
carry anything more than you need including a wallet or purse. Do not display expensive
cameras, watches or jewelry. Do not be afraid but do stay aware and do not hesitate to
take a taxi if you become lost.
As of January 2001 former Mayor Cesar Maia is the new Mayor. Reducing crime and poverty
were major issues throughout the country this election cycle with the people supporting
the greater government intervention and accountability of Maia's Brazilian Labor Party
(PTB).
The Sambadrome
Since it opened 1984, the Sambodrome has been the high temple of Carnaval of the
planet. If you choose to parade with a group (costumes cost from $150 to $350) you will
bathe in the most concentrated intense body of human spirit possible and after reaching
the end of the 100,000-seat parade you enter Apotheosis Square elevated to divine status
with the gods. Tickets to the Sambodrome can cost several hundred dollars and can usually
be obtained by your hotel. Also you can try to get some a face value (as little as $80) by
contacting the on line ticket broker www.funbynet.com.br. You can watch on TV this special
group parade, which go from 7 pm to 6 am on Carnaval Sunday and Carnaval Monday too. The
13th and 14th place finishers will drop to the A league to make way for next year's
challengers. The judging is both sophisticated and political.
The Carnaval Balls
You will find decadent, sweaty dancing bodies but probably no orgies when you head for
a Carnaval Ball. Erotic flesh baring and sensual costumes are the most popular costume.
This is a singles scene although you may discover the hot Brazilian number you've
connected with is a professional. There are more exclusive balls like the Copacabana
Palace on Carnaval Saturday ($300 advance only) but there are also plenty you can pay at
the door that night (around $20). The most famous ball for people with alternative
lifestyles (Gays, lesbians, bisexuals, transsexuals, drag queens, and transvestites) is
Gala Gay at Scala in Leblon, on Carnaval Tuesday.
Carnaval in the Streets
While it's true that all the bars and streets have turned up their volume and energy
level a few notches during Carnaval you do have to know where to look to find traditional
Carnaval in Rio
Rio Branco
This major street in Rio is given up to the unofficial and for use by some of the
smaller school parades. This is your best bet for where to head when in doubt but looking
for the heights and depths of Rio Carnaval. Music will be provided by either static sound
systems or moving music from either trios elétricos or drummers. This is where
individual costumers will want to have their creative inspirations appreciated Bandas
Most Rio beach neighborhoods have a loose bandas (bun-dush) or blocos
(blo-cush) to call their own and they will all be parading for Carnaval. They roam the
streets along a pre-determined route when not "concentrating" at favorite spots.
They start things off in the late afternoon. Start listening around 4 pm for their sounds,
which can include brass as well as the beat of samba. You're invited to follow them like
you belong regardless of whether you're in costume or just be part of the friendly throngs
cheering them on.
Trios Elétricos
Copacabana seafront along Avenida Atlântica swings evenings from about eight or nine
o'clock onwards. Moving stages called trios elétricos will be cruising up and down
the seafront followed by thousands of revelers who are ready to party late once more.
Rio Carnaval on the Web
www.LIESA.com.br: League of Special Samba Schools
Where to find official information about Rio's top samba schools
www.Ipanema.com (English, Portuguese & German)
Dozens of insightful Carnaval pages as well as the best source for when and where to catch
the bandas
www.terra.com.br/carnaval: (Portuguese
only) one of Brazil largest media companies now has large web Carnaval presence featuring
extensive event information for balls and Carnaval in the streets. Good coverage for nine
other pre Lenten Brazilian Carnavals and extensive photos of Carnaval 2000.
www.uol.com.br/carnaval: Competition with
terra.com is to our benefit. Many Carnaval stories and photos of Carnaval including both
the historical and topical arranged under many headings as well as cities.
www.World-Party.com/Rio.htm: (English
only) Their reporter will be covering Carnaval from the party angle for their third year
in 2001.
www.love-rio.com/: Pulled back from an extensive
2000 coverage and their site is showing that cobweb indicator known as the "404 file
not found" message. Still you can find the content of the #1 Rio Carnaval site from
1996 to 1999 and the beautiful website of the most awarded Samba School of the nineties:
Imperatriz Leopoldinense
www.carnaval.com: The web's only Carnaval portal
does extensive coverage on Rio Carnaval and Brazilian adventure travel with over 50,000
reviewed links. While the main pages only get a major makeover once a year there is an
amazingly deep aforum.com section, which always has something new and interesting
C. M. Collins is the publisher of Carnaval.com and the San Francisco
Mission District,s SFMission.com and often writes about his favorite subject. You can
contact him a cmcollins@carnaval.com
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