Brazzil

Thanks to the wonderful potions prepared by Loira, Loira and Roque postponed old age and senility, processes of life extinction from the previous century, from which they were the sole leftovers. Her face was smooth as a saint’s butt. There were no wrinkles; it was stretched like a mummy. And Roque was stout, virile. What would be their real age?
By Brazzil Magazine

AROUND OURO PRETO

We got a kick out of Minas de Passagem. It is probably the best gold mine to visit in the Ouro Preto region. There's an immense system of tunnels that goes down very deep and then spreads horizontally. Only a fraction of the mine is open to the public, but for most terrestrials, it's enough. The descent into the mine is made in air antique, steam powered cable car (though the guide is quick to assure you that the cable itself is new), giving you a very good idea of just how dangerous and claustrophobic mining can be. The mine was opened in 1719. Until the abolition of slavery, it was worked by black slaves, many of whom died (not from the cable-car ride, as you might think after taking it, but from dynamiting into the rock). Our guide, who worked in the mine as recently as 1985 and was then earning the minimum wage of $35 a month, told us that the life of the 'free' miner was little better than that of the slave.

The mandatory guided tour, led by former miners, is short and quite informative, especially if someone in the group asks the right questions. The mine is open from 9 am to 6 pm daily and the entry fee is $12. The mine is between Ouro Preto and Mariana. Take any local bus that runs between the two and ask the driver to let you off at Minas de Passagem.

Founded in 1696, Mariana is a pleasant old mining town with a character unlike its busy neighbor, Ouro Preto. Only 12 km by paved road from Ouro Preto, Mariana is touristed but not overrun, retaining the high-altitude tranquility of many of the mining towns. Relax and unwind here. It's also a good place to stay if you want to avoid onto Preto by night.

The tourist terminal, where the bus from Ouro Preto will stop, contains an information office which sells maps ($2) and Portuguese- language guidebooks. This is the place to arrange a guide if you want one. Some French is spoken.

Mariana has plenty of interesting sights. The 18th-century churches of São Pedro dos Clérigos, Nossa Senhora da Assunção and São Francisco, and the Catedral Basílica da Sé, with its fantastic German organ dating from 1701, are all worthwhile. The museum at Casa Capitular is also worth a look. While walking through the old part of town, you'll come across painters and wood sculptors at work in their studios.

One of Minas Gerais' original gold towns, São João del Rei is a thriving small city, whose old, central section features several of Brazil's finest churches. With hotels and sights all within walking range in the old city center, there's little cause to see the more modern part of town; nevertheless, it's evident that the city hasn't been frozen in time, unlike most of the other historic cities of Minas Gerais.

Brazil’s Landmarks Commission protects the old section, and police guard the churches at night. The city is bisected by Rio Lenheiro, which is traversed by two 18th-century stone bridges. In addition to the Aleijadinho-inspired churches, there are several fine colonial mansions—one of which belonged to the late and still-popular ex-president Tancredo Neves—a good museum, and a surprising variety of other sites and activities.

The city sits between the Serra de São José and the Serra do Lenheiro, near the southern end of the Serra do Espinhaço. It's hilly country near the Rio das Mortes (River of the Dead), where many prospectors were killed during the gold-rush days. The most famous incident took place in 1708, when a band of Emboabas, recent Portuguese immigrants, surrounded about 50 Paulistas or bandeirantes, São Paulo natives of mixed Portuguese and Indian blood. The Paulistas were massacred after laying down their arms in surrender. This was the bloodiest atrocity in the near civil war that these two groups fought over control of the mines; the place where it happened is called the Capão da Traição (Copse of Treason)

São João del Rei is sandwiched between two hills, both of which provide excellent views, particularly at sunset. The Cristo Redentor monument, overlooking the city, stands on one hill and the Capelinha do Senhor do Bonfim on the other. Both hilltops are the last stop for the local city bus "Sr. dos Montes", which leaves from in front of the train station.

The tourist information office is in the Terminal Turístico, in Praça Antônio Vargas, a block from Avenida Presidente Tancredo Neves. It's open from 6 am to 6 pm. The Secretaria Municipal de Turismo, close to the Igreja São Francisco, is also useful. It's open from 8 am to 5 pm.

Be sure to take a walk at night, when floodlights illuminate the churches and give them a fantastic appearance.

This exquisite baroque church, full of curves and carvings, looks out on a palm-lined, lyre-shaped plaza. Begun in 1774, the church was Aleijadinho's first complete project, but much of his plan was not realized. Still, the exterior, with an Aleijadinho sculpture of the Immaculate Virgin and several angels, is one of the finest in Minas. There is some uncertainty about what work Aleijadinho did and did not do on the interior. He probably did the main altar, but his work was completely altered. In the second altar to the left, there is an image of São João Evangelista, which is the work of Aleijadinho, as is the Santo Antônio. Notice the fine woodwork, particularly in the rear of the church.

Tancredo Neves the man, who led Brazil from military rule, is buried in the church graveyard. The church is open from 8 am to noon. On Sunday the local Coalhada (all-white) orchestra and choir perform at the 9.15 am

Begun in 1732, this church was designed by Aleijadinho. He also did the frontispiece and sculpture around the door. In the second sacristy is a famous unfinished sculpture of Christ. The church is open from 8 to 11 am and 4 to 7 pm.

Begun in 1721, this church has exuberant gold altars. There are also fine Portuguese tiles. The mulatto Rapadura orchestra and choir accompany the 7 pm mass here on Wednesday. On Thursday and Friday, the Coalhada takes their place. The church is open from 8 to 11 am.

This simple church was built in 1719 to honor the protector of the slaves. It's open from 8 to 10 am.

One of the best museums in Minas Gerais, this well restored 1859 colonial mansion has good sacred art on the first two floors, and an industrial section on the 3rd floor, with tools and instruments. It's open Tuesday to Sunday from noon to 5 pm.

Train freaks take heart: you are at one with the Mineiros, who also love their trains. The expertly renovated railway museum, housed in the train station, has a wealth of artifacts and information about the train days of the late 19th century. Don't forget to walk down the track to the large rotunda that looks like a coliseum: it houses the trains and is the best part of the museum. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 8 am to 5 pm (closed for lunch between 11 am and 1 pm). Admission costs $0.50.

This is a pewter factory with a display and store for visitors; owned by an Englishman (there is a small English community in São João). The museum is down the river towards the rodoviária, at Avenida Leite de Castro 1150. It is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm.

Open daily (except Monday) from 9 am to 5 pm, the museum has a small but impressive collection of art from the city's churches. Look closely at the figure of Christ mourned by Mary Magdalene and you'll see that the drops of blood are rubies.

This former gold mine is a thin wedge that descends 53 meters through solid rock. Apart from the adrenalin rush of going into the mine, you'll get an interesting demonstration of the regional mining techniques. It's all very impressive, and free.

If you don't mind walking through a pretty depressing favela to get there, put on some decent walking shoes and follow the signs from town till you reach a steep hill. Walk up the hill into the favela and turn left along the footpath. The mine is right there, behind the 'Exportak' sign.

Chugging along at 25 km/h on the steam-powered Maria Fumaça along a picturesque 13-km stretch of track from São João to Tiradentes makes a great half-hour train ride. The line has operated nonstop since 1881 with the same Baldwin locomotives, and since being restored, the 76-cm-gauge track is in perfect condition.

The train runs only on Friday, Saturday, Sunday and holidays, leaving São João at 10 am and 2.15 pm and returning from Tiradentes at 1 and 5 pm. This schedule often changes, so it's best to check. The train costs $3 and gets crowded; be there early. Going to Tiradentes, sit on the left side for a better view.

Don't forget that if you're only going to Tiradentes for the day and need more time than the return train allows; you can easily take a later bus back to São João.

São João has a very lively Carnival—locals claim it's the best in Minas Gerais. With all the music in town (there's a school of music, and several bands and orchestras), this is a credible boast. The Semana da Inconfidência, from 15 to 21 April, celebrates Brazil's first independence movement and the hometown boys who led it. (This festival is also held in Tiradentes.)

Another important festival is the Inverno Cultural during July, with lots of theatre, concerts and dances. The list of festivals just goes on and on—15 religious and 10 secular on one calendar—so stop by the tourist office for a schedule of events; someone is probably celebrating something in São João.

The music of Minas is extremely good and different from anything else you've ever heard. Try the Teatro Municipal for weekend concerts. The restaurant Cabana da Espanhola has live music Thursday to Sunday. It's at Avenida 31 de Março. Another central place to try is Feitiço Mineiro, near the Catedral do Pilar; it has live music on Friday and Saturday nights.

They don't make towns any prettier than Tiradentes. Ten km down the valley from São João del Rei, its gold-era rival, colonial Tiradentes sits on a hill below a mountain. With few signs of change over the last two centuries, the town has that magic quality of another age—and for some odd reason, that's a very good feeling.

Originally called Arraial da Ponta do Morro (Hamlet on a Hilltop), Tiradentes was renamed to honor the martyred hero of the Inconfidência, who was born at a nearby farm. The town's colonial buildings run up a hillside, where they culminate in the beautiful Igreja Matriz de Santo Antônio. If you stand between the church's Aleijadinho-carved frontispiece and famous sundial, there is a colorful view of the terracotta-tiled colonial houses, the green valley, and the towering, wall of stone formed by the Serra de São José.

The Secretaria de Turismo is at Rua Resende Costa 71, the only three-story building in town. The staff have maps and others useful information. Luiz Cruz speaks good English and is very helpful—ask about guides and walks into the surrounding mountains. The post office is in the same building.

Named after the town's patron saint, this church is built on the site of a former church. Commenced in 1710 and restored in 1983, it is one of Brazil's most beautiful. There are two bell towers, and a frontispiece by Aleijadinho, one of the last that he completed. Leandro Gonçalves Chaves made the sundial in front of the church, in 1785.

The all-gold interior is rich in symbols from the Old Testament. There is a painting by João Batista showing the miracle of Santo Antônio making a donkey kneel before the Pope. There is also a polychrome organ, built in Portugal and brought to Tiradentes by donkey in 1798. Ask about performances. The church is open from 8 am to 5 pm, but usually closes for lunch from noon to 1 pm,

This museum is dedicated to another hero of the Inconfidência, Padre Toledo, who lived in this 18-room house where the Inconfidentes first met. The museum features regional antiques and documents from the 18th century.

After a short walk on Rua da Santíssima Trindade, you arrive at this simple pilgrimage church. Dating from 1810, it was built on the site of a small chapel where Tiradentes chose the triangle (symbolizing the holy trinity) as the flag for the new nation.

This colonial mansion, now an expensive hotel impeccably restored and decorated, is well worth walking through. The first building on the other side of the little stone bridge, it's marked by a small sign.

Constructed in 1749 by the town council, this beautiful fountain has three sections: one for drinking, one for washing clothes and one for watering horses. The water comes from Mãe d'Água via an old stone pipeline.

This area, is one of Minas' remaining untouched segments of Atlantic rainforest. Mãe d’Água is at the base of these mountains. Lush with moss and plants, the waters are clear and fresh. A 25-minute walk from Tiradentes, Mãe d’Água can also be reached by car. Other walks include: A Calçada a stretch of the old road that linked Ouro Preto with Rio de Janeiro; Cachoeiras do Mangue, the falls where you can see an old gold mine on the road made by slaves; and Cachoeira do Bom Despacho, a waterfall on the Tiradentes-Santa Cruz road. Each of these takes about four or five hours. A seven-hour walk will allow you to cross the range. For guides and information about walks into the mountains, ask at the tourist office.

Diamantina is a 5 1/2-hour drive north from Belo Horizonte. After passing the town of Curvelo (the geographical center of Minas), the stark landscape of northern Minas, with its rocky outcrops and barren highlands, is a sharp contrast to the lush hills in the south of the state.

One of Brazil's prettiest and less-visited colonial gems, the city boomed when diamonds were discovered in the 1720s, after the gold finds in Minas. The diamonds have petered out, but the fine colonial mansions and the excellent hiking in the surrounding mountains still draw visitors. Diamantina also happens to be the birthplace of Juscelino Kubitschek, former Brazilian president and the founder of Brasília

Because of its isolation, Diamantina is a well-preserved colonial city. The center, apart from the relatively new cathedral and a couple of incongruous traffic lights, hasn't changed for hundreds of years. Most of the churches and historical houses remain closed, but it doesn't matter much—the exteriors are more interesting anyway.

At Praça Antônio Eulálio 57, a short walk from the cathedral, is the tourist office, where you'll find a roteiro turístico (tourist guide) in Portuguese, which includes a map. The staff also have access to the keys to most of the tourist attractions, many of which seem to be undergoing restoration indefinitely.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo

Constructed between 1760 and 1765, this church has its tower built at the rear because Chica da Silva disliked being awakened by bells. The church is the most opulent in Diamantina and it's worth having a look inside. It has an organ made in Diamantina and wrought in gold, as well as rich, golden carvings.

This is the oldest church in town, dating from 1731. Very interesting here is the tree that grew up through a wooden cross. You can see the pieces of the cross in the tree.

The house of Padre Rolim, one of the Inconfidentes, is now a museum, with furniture, coins, instruments of torture and other relics of the diamond days. It's open from noon to 5.30 pm Tuesday to Sunday.

This colonial mansion, on Praça Lobo de Mesquita, was the home of diamond contractor João Fernandes de Oliveira and his mistress and former slave, Chica da Silva. It's empty at the moment, but from the outside it's possible to get an idea of the lifestyle of the extravagant mulatta. The huge colonial door leads to her private chapel.

Built by the army in 1835, the market, in Praça Barão Guaicuí, was in use until only a couple of years ago. Its wooden arches inspired Niemeyer's design for the presidential palace in Brasília.

Consisting of two houses on opposite sides of Rua da Glória connected by an enclosed, 2nd-story passageway, Casa da Glória was originally the residence of the diamond supervisors and the first bishop of Diamantina. Today it's the Institute of Geology.

This small house, at Rua São Francisco, 241 reflects the simple upbringing of the former president, whose grandparents were poor Czech immigrants. Kubitschek himself believed that his early life in Diamantina influenced him greatly.

While you are here, walk a couple of km down the Caminho dos Escravos (built by slaves) to the Serra da Jacuba. Then walk eight km on the road to São Gonçalo to see the furnas (caverns).

Dominated by the Igreja de Santa Rita, Serro is a tranquil cidade histórica 90 km from Diamantina. It's a cold, windy place surrounded by granite hills, which in the past provided refuge for runaway slaves. The city is rich in folkloric traditions and is the home of the famous queijo serrano (one of Brazil's finest cheeses).

As well as the Igreja Santa Rita, Serro contains such historic churches as the Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo (1781), in Praça João Pinheiro, and the Igreja Senhor Bom Jesus de Matosinhos, in Praça Cristianno Otoni.

Other colonial buildings worth a look are the Casa do Barão de Diamantina—now used as the town hall—with 40 rooms, which were to have held Dom Pedro II and his entourage during a visit that never happened, and the Chácara do Barão do Serro, across the valley, which has a small museum.

The Festa do Rosário, which takes place on the first Sunday in July, features folkloric characters—catopês, caboclinhos and marujos—who dance and stage mock fights in the streets.

Excerpts from Brazil - A Travel Survival Kit, 3rd edition, by Andrew Draffen, Chris McAsey, Leonardo Pinheiro,  and Robyn Jones. For more information call Lonely Planet: (800) 275-8555. Copyright 1996 Lonely Planet Publications. Used by permission.

Lonely Planet
Brazil - A Travel Survival Kit
by Andrew Draffen, Chris McAsey,
Leonardo Pinheiro, Robyn Jones,
704 pp.

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