Brazzil
November 1998
Behavior
High in Spirits
Cachaça, the Brazilian national liquor, is gaining status. Drink boutiques specialized in the sugar cane distilled spirits and cachaçarias have been spreading throughout the country. There is a pro-cachaça movement going on and a national campaign to market the alcohol abroad. The down side it that alcoholism continues to be a serious problem in the country.
Jamie Sundquist
The word cachaça (kah-shah-sah), a translation of an African term for liquor, originated in the tribes of Northeastern Brazil where the beverage was first discovered. Cachaça is known by many aliases—garapa doida, pinga, parati, cana, caninha and others as any Brazilian knows—but, only true, artesian cachaça boasts the rich, earthy taste similar to that of tequila and aromas of balsam, cinnamon and oak.
Cachaça can also be distinguished by its varying golden hues and regional potency, between 50% and 70% proof, depending on the distillation process. Cachaça, extracted from the heart of the sugar cane plant, distilled in the artesian tradition and then preserved in oak barrels, has not always been processed in such a civilized manner. Until the early 16th century cachaça in its undistilled form was fed in open wooden troughs to livestock and slave workers on sugar-cane plantations (The Natural History of Brazil, 1640.)
When the liquid sugar fermented in the sunlight the resultant alcohol eventually became known as garapa doida (crazy sugar-cane juice.) During the same period that garapa was introduced in the northeastern state of Bahia, stills were being constructed in the south by European settlers with their refined tools and engineering knowledge. The liquor became most popular in the states of Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo as an export commodity for slave traders although conflict with the Native Brazilians and new settlers made their attempts more difficult.
Today, the state of Minas Gerais, nationally known for its cachaça and collective farmers group, Ampaq, produces 120 million liters and sustains the 180 million liters consumed annually with additional reserves in Northeastern Brazil and the State of São Paulo. Providing jobs to more that 100,000 people through all stages of production, cachaça is a staple for national economic stability. Since the Pro-cachaça movement took charge in Brazil at the end of 1997, efforts of the Minister of Industry, Commerce and Tourism and various government agencies have sought to export $100 million by the year 2002. Although a conflict exists between the historical plague of alcoholism and current popularity, this beverage is of great importance to Brazil’s economic prosperity.
Currently, there are hundreds of cachaças on the market with the surge of cachaçarias (bars that only serve or specialize in cachaça) and export activity. "Drink boutiques" throughout Brazil are elevating the once class "C" beverage to a class "A" status as sales continue to increase since the pro-cachaça movement which began last year. This recent surge in cachaça consumption has not only caused more restaurant and bar owners to take an interest, but the resultant economic success has become the focus of a national campaign to market the alcohol abroad.
The Mineira Association of Producers of Alcohol (Ampaq) in the state of Minas Gerais and various government programs such as the Program for Brazilian Development of Sugar-Cane Alcohol (PBDAC) and the Agency of State and Federal Promotion (Apex) in a collaborative effort have developed a plan to increase sales through worldwide promotion. The past year has been only the beginning for the pro-cachaça movement. Representatives from the two states most affected economically by the sale of the liquor, Pernambuco and Minas Gerais, have become advocates also for the agrarian movement.
Quality controls and seals of approval have been developed by Ampaq that satisfy the taste, color and alcohol content requirements established by the Technological Center of Minas Gerais (Cetec), the Agriculture Institute of Minas (Ima) and the Institute of Industrial Development (Indi). The coveted seals signify the guaranteed quality of a cachaça which proudly bears the approval markings.
Not only a favorite in Brazilian cachaçarias, cachaça is becoming a popular beverage in Europe as Brazilian producers privately seek opportunities at trade shows and other beverage competitions to market their "blend", in many cases competing with the infamous Scotch whisky. With continued interest and support, sales are expected to triple internationally by the 2002 deadline.
Although undocumented, the evident problem of alcoholism has become the focus of studies in Brazil by the World Health Organization (WHO). The Brazilian Department of Health and Human Services has been slow to develop a national program to combat the disease that recent statistics show results in abuse, accidents and even death. However, various options for treatment and prevention are beginning to surface on the local level as a result of increased public knowledge. In 1995, a report identifying the seriousness of the problem was the first attempt at alerting the Brazilian population of the effects of alcoholism. Interest in the issue later produced various reports in 1996 documenting the death of over nine million people as a result of alcohol-related physical abuse and traffic accidents.
In more recent studies, medical specialists determined that the fastest growing group of alcohol users are adolescents ages eleven to twelve. Although there has been minimal support by the Department of Health and Human Services, statistic and reports such as these have resulted in various programs and government restrictions on promotion and sale of alcohol produced in Brazil. The World Health Organization has concluded that the focus of intervention efforts in Brazil should continue to be a public matter noting that politicians have the loudest voice among the masses. Suggestions such as educational campaigns and projects directed at schools, decreasing the legal drinking age and raising the price on alcoholic beverages are changes that WHO specifically prescribed for Brazil.
Such recommendations have inspired the State of São Paulo to decrease the legal blood alcohol content allowed on state highways and now prohibits the sale of alcohol in roadside convenience stores. Communities have established chapters of Alcoholics Anonymous in response to the increased occurrence of domestic abuse. Employers continue to sponsor programs which curb problems related to abuse such as productivity and safety. Government restrictions on the alcohol producers has caused the President of the Association of Alcohol Producers in Brazil to become a major advocate for the responsible promotion of alcoholic beverages, specifically cachaça, which has the most restrictions because of its availability and price.
Cachaça is a liquor to be enjoyed in moderation and appreciated for the tradition in which each bottle is preserved. Cachaça is centuries old with many obstacles and turning points in its rich history and the renewed interest in Brazil’s national passion is gaining momentum. Predictions made regarding the future prosperity of cachaça by successful bar owners, producers and government officials alike is causing the world to also take notice.
The impact of promoting cachaça on Brazil’s economic success remains to be seen, but with government support, the agrarian movement can continue lobbying for a national effort to create a more responsible image of the beverage at home and abroad. Time and government restrictions will determine whether the image and reputation of the leading cause of alcoholism in the country can overcome one more obstacle and maintain its new found "A" status.
Jamie Sundquist, the author, can be reached at jmsund@mailexcite.com
