Eng Tie Ang
I may not be a total expert on Brazilian food, but I know my way around a kitchen fairly well and I am able to make people come back for more and more when I cook Brazilian dishes -- and I know it's not because my guests and family are being polite that they do so! One of my specialties is feijoada completa, Brazil's national dish. The actual origin of the dish is essentially African, but popular belief has it that it evolved from a combination of sources, from the African slaves, to the Portuguese colonists, to the indigenous Indians.
The African slaves had the basic bean stew, the Portuguese added the linguiça (sausage), and the Indians added the farofa (toasted manioc flour). Regardless of its origin and evolutionary history, everyone loves my feijoada completa and I enjoy making it. Of course, I usually make enough to feed an army and I often find long lost "soldiers" dropping by my house at meal time when word gets out that I am preparing one.
Perhaps it's just a coincidence! Be that as it may, I'd like to tell people about some less traditional "feijoadas" from different regions of Brazil. For the traditionalists amongst you, I will give you my traditional recipe from my cookbook, Delightful Brazilian Cooking, after I have given the non-traditional ones. These "feijoadas" are popular in the regions where they come from, but are often strange sounding to those people who come from other regions of Brazil because they aren't truly feijoadas.
It's like anything else really -- people eat whatever grows in their region and they modify recipes from other areas with their home-grown ingredients. Basically, these other so-called feijoadas are various regional dishes prepared with different kinds of beans. To call them "feijoada" could be considered a national sacrilege to many people, but to others it's just a name. You decide for yourself whether these are feijoadas or feijoada impostors. Whatever they are, I hope you try some of them so that you can experience a little bit of Brazil while living far from there. Please note that in some of these recipes, I have had to substitute the actual beans called for with as close an American equivalent as I could come up with.
Feijoada à Nordestina (Northeastern feijoada)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large yellow onions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, crushed
4 slices bacon, chopped
1 cup Italian parsley, chopped
5 large tomatoes, chopped
1 red cayenne pepper, chopped
4 cups dried beans (any kind of small brown bean), soaked overnight, drained
1 lb. salt pork, boiled for 5 minutes, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 lb. Italian sausage
2 lbs. corned beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. smoked lean ham hocks
1 whole chicken breast, boned, skinned, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. round steak, cut into 2-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
4 bay leaves
2 1/2 quarts water
1 lb. pumpkin, peeled, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 chayote squash, peeled, cores removed, cut into 2-inch cubes
1/2 lb. green cabbage, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 bunch collard greens, washed, shredded
1/2 lb. fresh string beans, ends removed, cut into 2-inch lengths
1 large potato, peeled, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 small sweet potato, peeled, cut into 2-inch cubes
3 ripe plantain bananas, peeled, cut into 2-inch lengths
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, deep pot and stir-fry the onion, garlic, and bacon for 2 minutes or until light golden brown. Add the Italian parsley , tomatoes, and cayenne and sauté for 1 minute. Add the beans, salt pork, Italian sausage, corned beef, ham hocks, chicken, round steak, salt, black pepper, bay leaves, and water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours or until the beans are tender, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed to ensure that the beans are completely covered while cooking. Add the pumpkin, chayote squash, green cabbage, collard greens, string beans, potato, sweet potato, and plantain bananas. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft. Do not overcook the vegetables. Serve immediately. Serves 8-10.
Feijoada à Baiana (Bahian feijoada)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large yellow onions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, crushed
4 slices bacon, chopped
1 cup Italian parsley, chopped
1 red cayenne pepper, chopped
4 cups dried beans (any kind of small brown bean), soaked overnight, drained
1 lb. salt pork, boiled for 5 minutes, cut into 1-inch cubes
1 lb. smoked Polish sausage, cut into 2-inch cubes
2 lbs. corned beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. smoked lean ham hocks
1 lb. round steak, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. pork spareribs, cut into small pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
4 bay leaves
2 1/2 quarts water
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, deep pot and stir-fry the onion, garlic, bacon for 2 minutes or until light golden brown. Add the Italian parsley and cayenne and sauté for 1 minute. Add the beans, salt pork, smoked Polish sausage, corned beef, ham hocks, round steak, pork spareribs, salt, black pepper, bay leaves, and water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours or until the beans are tender, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed to ensure that the beans are completely covered while cooking. Serves 8-10.
Feijoada à Francesa (Cassoulet or French Feijoada)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large yellow onions, chopped
1 cup Italian parsley, chopped
1/2 cup green onion, chopped
2 whole duck breasts, boned, skinned, cut into 2-inch cubes
4 lbs. lamb, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. smoked polish sausage, cut into 2-inch lengths
4 large tomatoes, chopped
2 tablespoons tomato paste
1 cup white wine
4 cups dried white beans, soaked, overnight, drained
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
2 1/2 quarts water
4 whole cloves
2 white onions, peeled
2 lbs. carrots, peeled, cut into 2-inch lengths
2 chayote squash, peeled, cores removed, cut into 2-inch cubes
4 stalks of celery, cut into 4-inch lengths
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, deep pot and stir-fry the onion, Italian parsley, and green onion for 2 minutes or until light golden brown. Add the duck, lamb, and smoked Polish sausage and sauté for 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, wine, white beans, salt, black pepper, water, cloves, and onions. Cover and simmer for 1 hour or until the beans and the meat are tender, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed to ensure that the beans are completely covered while cooking. Add the carrots, chayote squash, and celery. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft. Do not overcook the vegetables. Serve immediately. Serves 8-10.
Feijoada à Carioca (Cariocan [from Rio de Janeiro] Feijoada)
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 red cayenne pepper, chopped
4 cups dried black beans, soaked overnight, drained
1 lb. salt pork, boiled for 5 minutes, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 lbs. Portuguese sausage (linguiça) or Italian sausage
1 lb. smoked Polish sausage, cut into 2-inch lengths
1 lb. smoked lean ham hocks
2 lbs. corned beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. pork spareribs, cut small pieces
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
4 bay leaves
1 fresh orange, washed very well, cut in half
2 quarts water
6 oranges, peeled, sliced
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, deep pot and stir-fry the onion, garlic, and cayenne for 2 minutes or until light golden brown. Add the beans, salt pork, Portuguese sausage, smoked Polish sausage, ham hocks, corned beef, pork spareribs, salt, black pepper, bay leaves, halved-orange and water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours or until the beans are tender, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed to ensure that the beans are completely covered while cooking. Serve with sliced oranges, manioc meal with butter and eggs, white rice, collard greens, vinaigrette sauce, and cachaça (Brazilian spirits) cocktail. Serves 8-10.
Feijoada à la Recife (Recife Feijoada)
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 large yellow onions, chopped
5 cloves garlic, crushed
4 slices bacon, chopped
4 cups dried beans (any kind of small brown bean), soaked overnight, drained
1 lb. salt pork, boiled for 5 minutes, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 lbs. corned beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. smoked lean ham hocks
1 lb. round steak, cut into 2-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
2 1/2 quarts water
1 lb. pumpkin, peeled, cut into 2-inch cubes
8 chayote squash, peeled, cores removed, cut into 2-inch cubes
1 lb. fresh okra, ends removed
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, deep pot and stir-fry the onion, garlic, and bacon for 2 minutes or until light golden brown. Add the beans, salt pork, corned beef, ham hocks, round steak, salt, black pepper, and water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours or until the beans are tender, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed to ensure that the beans are completely covered while cooking. Add the pumpkin, chayote squash, and okra. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are soft. Do not overcook the vegetables. Serve immediately. Serves 8-10.
Feijoada completa
Brazilian black beans
from the book Delightful Brazilian Cooking
2 tablespoons canola oil
1 large yellow onion, chopped
4 cloves garlic, crushed
4 cups dried black beans, soaked overnight, drained
1 lb. salt pork, boiled for 5 minutes, cut into 1-inch cubes
2 lbs. Portuguese sausage (linguiça) or Italian sausage
1 lb. smoked lean ham hocks
2 lbs. corned beef, cut into 2-inch cubes
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons ground black pepper
4 bay leaves
1 fresh orange, washed very well, cut in half
2 quarts water
6 oranges, peeled, sliced
Heat the oil in a large, heavy, deep pot and stir-fry the onion and garlic for 1 minute or until light golden brown. Add the beans, salt pork, Portuguese sausage, ham hocks, corned beef, salt, black pepper, bay leaves, halved-orange and water. Cover and simmer for 2 hours or until the beans are tender, stirring occasionally and adding water if needed. Serve with sliced oranges, manioc meal with butter and eggs, Brazilian rice, collard greens, vinaigrette sauce, and cachaça (Brazilian spirits) cocktail. Serves 8-10.
Vinaigrette sauce (molho de vinagrete)
1/2 cup olive oil
1 cup white vinegar
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup Italian parsley, finely chopped
4 large fresh tomatoes, chopped
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
2 fresh red cayenne peppers, finely chopped (optional)
Combine all the ingredients in a large bowl. Stir well and serve either at room temperature or cold. Serve over meat and beans. Makes 3 cups.
Collard greens (couve refogada)
2 tablespoons canola oil
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 bunches collard greens, washed, shredded
1 teaspoon salt
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and sauté the garlic until light golden brown. Add the collard greens and salt. Stir-fry over medium-high heat for 3 minutes or until greens are tender; do not overcook. Serves 4-6.
Brazilian rice (arroz brasileiro)
4 tablespoons canola oil
1 yellow onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, crushed
3 cups white long grain rice, washed, drained
4 cups boiling water
1 bay leaf
2 medium tomatoes, chopped (optional)
1/2 teaspoon salt
In a 4 quart pot, heat the oil over medium-high heat and stir-fry the onion and garlic until golden. Pour in the rice and stir for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the water, bay leaf, tomatoes and salt. Return to a boil and continue stirring until almost all the water is evaporated, about 5 minutes. Cover the pot and reduce the temperature. Simmer for 20 minutes or until the rice is cooked. Serves 4-6.
Manioc meal with butter and egg
2 tablespoons butter or margarine
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 eggs
2 cups manioc flour
2 tablespoons Italian parsley, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
Melt the butter in a large frying pan and sauté the onion until golden brown. Add the eggs and scramble until firm and separated in small pieces. Add the manioc meal, parsley, salt and pepper, stirring well until lightly browned. Serve with any bean dish. Serves 6-8.
Cachaça (Brazilian spirits) cocktail
2 tablespoons sugar
2 fresh limes, finely grated and squeezed
1 cup cachaça or white rum
1 cup crushed ice
In a small bowl, combine the sugar, grated lime peel and lime juice. Let stand for 5 minutes. Add the cachaça. Pour the cocktail mixture into small glasses filled with ice. Serves 4.
If you are interested in having a copy of Delightful Brazilian Cooking, autographed and with a dedication, please contact Ambrosia Publication at PO Box 30818, Seattle, WA 98103 or phone or fax your order to (206) 789-3693. If you order now, you will receive two copies of the book for the price of one, $14.95, plus $5.00 shipping and handling.
