Brazzil
September 1999
ImpressionsPast and
CharmUNESCO in 1982 declared Olinda part of the World's Cultural Heritage. Its residents are forbidden to alter its architecture or construct new buildings not compatible with the colonial motif. The whole of the old town is to remain a living museum.
Habeeb Salloum
"Now we are in Olinda the beautiful", the young guide's voice seemed to come to life. After half a day of monotonously describing the touristic sights in Recife, Brazil's northeastern capital, she now appeared to be enjoying her work. "In this place a seed was sown and the Brazilian nation grew", Jeisane, our attractive shepherdess, pointed to the town we were entering whose colorful buildings were half hidden by coconut palms and other luxuriant greenery. From the seafront roadway along which we were driving, it appeared like a jewel waiting to be uncovered.
Turning up a steep narrow street we made our way upward past ancient churches and colonial style homes—flaunting the traces of history. A few hundred feet from the topmost point of the hill we parked our vehicle and walked the remainder of the way to Alto da Sé, the city's social center, located at the very summit of Olinda.
"Now you are in the heart of historic Brazil. It was on this spot in 1537 A.D. that the Portuguese explorer Duarte Coelho Pereira stood and declared: `Oh linda situação para uma vila' (What a magnificent site for a village). During the same year, the king of Portugal granted him the land where he had stood— the heart of today's Olinda. Here, he built the first Portuguese colonial capital in the Americas—a status the city retained until 1827. Later the Dutch occupied Olinda for a brief time, from 1630 to 1654, and expanded it into a city". Jeisane, a recent university graduate, went on to give us a quick outline of Olinda's history.
More than any other urban center in Brazil, this small attractive city, carries the aura of an illustrious and affluent past. This prosperity was thanks to the cultivation and trade in sugar, which reached its peak at the end of the 16th century. The high demand on the international market for sugar during the 16th and most of 17th centuries created the wealth, which drew several religious orders that, in the ensuing years, built the town's numerous educational and religious structures. Subsequently, the sugar trade somewhat dwindled, but even today Olinda is still surrounded by sugar cane fields.
The city is considered to be the origin of the entire Brazilian culture of the 16th century. In that bygone era, law schools, painting, sculpturing and the theatre, all flourished in Olinda and from this once proud capital spread to the other parts of the nation. Vestiges from that age of opulence remain in its monuments and the workmanship of its dwellings. It is one of the largest architectural reserves of Colonial Brazil and the most important art center in the northeast of the country.
These ornate-historic remains led UNESCO in 1982 to declare Olinda part of the World's Cultural Heritage. Today, its residents are forbidden to alter its architecture or construct new buildings not compatible with the colonial motif. Hence, the whole of the old town is to remain a living museum portraying the remnants of history. Today, this historic section of the city, about 10% of a modern city of 350,000, is encircled by structures of the 20th century.
Passing by stands selling artwork, handmade tapestry and other artisan products, intertwined with small food stalls and bars, we made our way through Alto da Sé—during the day or at night, the most frequented quarter in Olinda. Jeisane allowed us to wander around for a few minutes to savor the atmosphere of this outdoor market place before we continued on our tour.
It was near sunset when we reached the Misericórdia Church—a venerable place of worship erected in 1540. After a short visit to examine its rich woodcarvings and gold decorations, Jeisane led us to an elevated spot a few dozen yards away. "Look! I am sure it is one of the most memorable scenes in the world. The artists who live here in great numbers say it is a spectacle crying for the brush", she pointed to the fairytale-like compact town below with its red tiled roofs and bright colored structures nestling in the rich green landscaped series of hills. Beyond, the twin city of Recife, glimmering in the twilight, could be seen in the distance while nearby the ocean, like a blue sparkling necklace, emphasized the beauty of Olinda. The last of the sun's rays gave the spectrum a rainbow effect creating an unforgettable kaleidoscope of color. With this panorama still captivating our very souls, we fully agreed with the words of our guide, "You have been privileged to see one of the most enchanting scenic views in Brazil".
That magic lantern which ended our day whetted my appetite for more. A few days later, I returned with a friend to spend a whole day and an evening exploring this charming town and savoring its historic remains. We meandered through well-preserved winding cobbled streets, which sneaked up and down hills offering a world of color and surprises. These quaint laneways, trodden for centuries, often led unexpectedly to public squares where we would rest and partake of refreshments.
Revitalized we would continue, never ceasing to be captivated by the picturesque homes with their blue, pink and white stucco walls. These brightly painted homes appeared to be more Portuguese or Spanish than Brazilian. Their heavy doors, latticed windows (Arabic, mashrabiyas), colorful tiles and balconies exhibited a remarkable Moorish influence. It was apparent that the Arab leftovers in Portuguese architecture had been transferred to the New World.
In between these charming abodes we found a good number of ancient convents and churches—some of the oldest in Brazil. During our rambling we stopped to examine a number of the some 20 historic Baroque churches, convents and colleges. No doubt, all were worth a lingering study but we only had time to stop briefly at the Cathedral Church, commanding a fantastic view, and once the parish Sé for the northeast of Brazil; the Church of our Lady Carmo, the most ancient church of the Carmelite order in the country; the Convent of Our Lady Neves, the first Franciscan establishment in Portugal's New World; the Seminary of Olinda, a rare example of cinquecentist architecture; and the Monastery of São Bento, home of the first law school in Brazil.
When we tired of exploring religious edifices, we sauntered to the Ribeira Market in order to examine its galleries of folk art and hand-woven articles, then left to have a look at the exhibits in the nearby Contemporary Art Museum—once an ecclesiastical prison. Fatigued, we ended our day of sightseeing by taking a taxi to the Samburá Restaurant where we enjoyed a delicious meal of fish—fresh out of the water.
A half dozen times during our tour we were accosted by pre-teenage youths asking questions such as, `Mister do you want to know the story of Olinda'? For a few cents, some would relate romantic stories, many, without question, fantasies, about important men and women who once trod the city's streets. Others would tell of bygone wars and cherished events from Olinda's past, tales which were in most cases, exaggerated anecdotes of mystery and courage.
Yet, even more than these youthful imageries created by make believe storytellers, the evening we spent on Alto da Sé outdid these narratives in its true to life magic. The streets and squares were packed with humanity, including a good number of tourists. Peddlers of ceramics, laced tablecloth, and countless other hand produced items, sold their goods amid vendors of sugarcane drinks, boiled corn, barbecued fish and similar foods of the people.
Here and there, groups of folkloric dancers and singers entertained the clustered encircling audiences. Around them lovers walked hand in hand and young men seeking female companionship eyed the young ladies—as a whole, some of the most beautiful in the world. The Carnaval atmosphere was all encompassing and exhilarating. To me, only the Jamaa El-Fna square in Marrakech could match the weekend evenings at Alto da Sé.
However, for those who truly enjoy festivals and parades, the best time to travel to Olinda is when its annual Carnaval is held. One of the three great carnavals in the country—the other two take place in Rio de Janeiro and Salvador—it lasts for ten days and attracts visitors from all parts of the country as well as many foreign tourists. They come to a city decked with colored lanterns, ribbons and streamers, enhanced by colored lights. Amid this embellishment, costumed parades, dancing, lively music and other organized events fill the streets of the old town, creating a magic world of enjoyment. The only drawback is lodging is hard to come by—bookings should be made in the Recife hotels, a $12 taxi ride away.
For tourists and other travelers staying in Recife, Olinda, less than half an hour away, is very accessible. Known as the twin cities, they form the gateway to northeastern Brazil. Situated on the coastline, they are both a mixture of the antique and the modern. The coconut palm shaded beaches of the sister cities make them the most superb resorts on Brazil's Atlantic shore.
Millions of sun worshippers travel here from the four corners of the globe to romp and carouse in their tourist facilities and relax on their sun drenched beaches. Of course, when they come, many would want to explore beautiful Olinda with its ornate houses of worship and splendid colonial homes.
In both towns, accommodations, eating places and nightspots are numerous and cater to all strata of visitors. Most are located on Recife's Boa Viagem Beach, 32 km (20 mi) from the heart of Olinda. However, nearby, to the north of town, edging a beach, is the Hotel Sofitel Olinda where one can revel in the luxury of the modern age and, at the same time, be near historic Olinda.
A five-star deluxe abode, it is the finest hotel in the area and incorporates all the features of the top-notch hotels in the world. In this modern abode, a visitor can enjoy the bordering ocean, a superb swimming pool, excellent sport facilities, shopping in interesting stores, dining in fine eating places, an evening in an impressive night club and exploring next-door Olinda—truly an ideal lodging spot in which to rest while relishing a tranquil and fascinating vacation.
Nevertheless, even though the Hotel Sofitel is an excellent choice, especially for ones with some affluence, Recife's Boa Viagem Beach hotels are the retreats where the majority of tourists spend their sojourn. Yet, it matters not where a visitor stays, visiting resplendent Olinda is a must. The legend of Duarte Pereira, when he saw the view from atop present day Olinda's highest point, exclaiming in another famous phrase, `Oh! Linda vista!' (Oh! Beautiful view!) from whence comes the name Olinda is still valid. The centuries that have passed only make this romantic town more seductive and bewitching.
Habeeb Salloum, who resides in Toronto, is a Canadian author and freelance writer specializing in travel and the culinary arts. Besides books and chapters in books, Habeeb has had hundreds of articles about food and travel published. Among his most important works are the books: Journeys Back to Arab Spain (1994); with J. Peters, From the Lands of Figs and Olives (1995 HB; 1997 PB); with J. Peters, Arabic Contributions to the English Vocabulary (1996); and Classic Vegetarian Cooking From the Middle East and North Africa, (in press). You can contact him at salloum@chass.utoronto.ca